|
|
|
|
 uilding
your own table doesn't have to be a complicated process.
Most of the materials you will need can be found in
your local do-it-yourself or hardware store. Below are
some step-by-step instructions on how to make the simplest
of Warhammer tables. This particular table is
one of many that Jake Landis made for use as introductory
gaming tables in the Games Workshop Hobby Centers across
the US. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Base. The
first thing you will want to do is get a sheet
of wood for the base structure. This example
table is 2'x2'. However, you can easily buy
a larger sheet to make a bigger table. Pressed
wood (like plywood) is very inexpensive and
doesn't warp when you use glue on it like cardboard
will. We recommend that the sheet of wood be
at least 1/2" in thickness to keep the
table from bending. |
|
|
|
|
| Hills. Next,
it's time to build some basic hills from sheets
of insulation foam. With a hobby knife, carefully
cut out the basic shape of the hills you want.
You can also add a second, smaller piece of
foam to create a multi-leveled hill. |
|
|
|
|
|
Shaping. Once
you have the basic structures of the hills
built, you'll want to give them a more irregular
shape so they won't look like insulation foam
when you're done. Again with your hobby knife
(or a hot wire cutter), shape the edges of
each tier of the hills. By cutting angled
edges into the foam, you can give your hills
a suitably craggy appearance. Next, glue your
hills to the board with white (PVA) or wood
glue and allow them to dry.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Road. This
next step is very simple. To create a country
road on your table, you can use dry wall spackle.
Spread the spackle from one corner of the board
to the other. Don't make it too thick, as it
will crack. You can run your fingers through
the spackle before it dries to create ruts in
the road. |
|
|
|
|
| Sand. After
your road has dried, it's time to put sand on
your sable. With a medium-sized house brush,
spread some thinned-out white (PVA) or wood
glue across the areas you want to have sand
on them. Make sure the areas are completely
covered with glue, or the sand with look patchy.
Then, pour sand over the entire table and allow
it to dry before pouring off the excess sand.
|
|
|
|
|
| Black Undercoat.
Next, paint the entire base black.
For this table, we used black latex house paint,
which offers a good amount of protection and
will help make your table durable. You can also
use spray black primer — however, make
sure that all your exposed insulation foam has
been covered with a layer of glue. Otherwise,
the spray will eat through the foam and ruin
the table. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Painting. Painting
your table is one of the easiest steps in
the process. For larger tables, it is sometimes
a good idea to buy an inexpensive brush for
painting houses. This larger brush will help
you cover larger sections of your table. For
our sample table, we heavily drybrushed over
the black primer with Scorched Brown. Then
we drybrushed with Graveyard Earth. Finally,
we lightly drybrushed with Bleached Bone.
We concentrated this last drybrush on the
road to make it really stand out next to the
darker colors.
|
|
|
|
|
| Static Grass. When
the paint is dry, it's time to flock your table.
Static grass is a simple way to add some realism
to your battlefield quickly. First, apply slightly
watered-down white (PVA) glue to the board and
then sprinkle Static Grass over the places with
glue. Make sure to cover the glue completely.
Pat the static grass down with your hands and
let it dry. Once it is dry, you can pour the
excess static grass back into container for
later use. It's a good idea to do this step
on a tarp or outside so that you don't accidentally
get static grass all over the floor. |
|
|
|
|
| The Finished Table.
Now you have a finished table, all
ready to play the scenarios that come with the
Battle for Skull Pass boxed set. As you
can see in the picture above, the table is truly
complete once you have deployed your Dwarf and
Goblin forces on it. |
|
|
|
|
| Now that you have the basics under your belt, the
next few pages will help you get and idea of how you
can take your Warhammer terrain building even
further. |
|
|
|
 |
|
Copyright © Games
Workshop Limited 2000-2006. Games Workshop, the Games Workshop logo,
Warhammer, Warhammer logo, Citadel,
the Citadel Device, Battle for Skull Pass, Dwarf Hammerers, Dwarf Ironbreakers,
Dwarf Miners, Dwarf Slayers, Dwarf logos, Idol of Gork, Night Goblins,
Orc & Goblin devices, Spider Riders, and all associated marks, logos,
places, names, creatures, races and race insignia/devices/logos/symbols,
vehicles, locations, weapons, units, characters, products, illustrations
and images from the Warhammer world are either ®, TM and/or © Games
Workshop Ltd 2000-2006, variably registered in the UK and other countries
around the world. All Rights Reserved.
|
|
|
|
